Pioneering the Forgotten: The adventure of rock climbing

By: Dana Harrington

There were occasions that the rock was clean and tall but featureless, and if not impossible to climb, it was too difficult for us. Yes, there were times when we would find solid, clean rocks with great lines to climb, but even when we came up empty-handed, the adventure was real. We were exploring beyond the reach of guides and guidebooks. We weren’t in the air-conditioned comfort of a climbing gym. There were no colored holds to mark the way, or wall-to-wall mats to protect us. We were in the wild where mother nature is not so concerned with making sure your climbing experience is pleasant, clean, and safe. It was fantastic! 

As much as I was enjoying my adventures at home, I also wanted to travel. I wanted to go to where other climbers were. Across the country there were a variety of well-known areas and I remember being very excited to travel to these “destinations” and explore the larger world of climbing. Back then there were several places that had guidebooks to help people find popular routes and boulders to climb. Climbing pop culture had introduced me to places like Yosemite, Smith Rock, Bishop, and El Potrero Chico. I can’t count the number of trips I’ve taken over the years. For me, guidebooks were essential. Without them, these climbing areas would’ve been virtually inaccessible. I am very thankful for the climbing pioneers who discovered these areas and those who took the time to write and publish guidebooks so that I could climb in this shared world without the mountain of effort that had come before me.

Local climbers exploring at Rimrock in the Allegheny National Forest in the PA Wilds. Photos by Dana Harrington. 

Fast forward twenty years. The proliferation of climbing gyms, route development, and guidebooks has ushered in a new age of climbing. Our sport is growing. Our community is growing. By and large this has been positive. Here in our corner of the PA Wilds we finally have the infrastructure to grow a climbing community. For so many years, climbing partners were few and far between. We now have a local gym where we can climb year round. Plus, the guidebook to the boulders at Rimrock Overlook has brought the larger climbing community to our backyard. It’s easier than ever to get connected. However, there is a downside. As more areas are uncovered and traffic increases, there is less wilderness for climbers to exercise their wanderlust. Part of what has always attracted me to the sport is the ability to venture to unknown areas and unearth something new. Climbing developers and guidebook authors have opened up a world of climbing for the masses. However, there is something to be said for leaving the area undocumented for the next adventurous soul to discover. We don’t need to publish everything. I’m certain that I was not the first climber to explore here in the Allegheny National Forest (ANF). However, those who came before me left no trace, which allowed me to have my own pioneering experience.

But if we don’t share everything, are we being exclusive? The idea of secret climbing areas has been a point of contention amongst climbers. On the whole, climbers tend to be fantastically inclusive, but that does not demand paving a path to every rock. There is a balancing act at play here. I would’ve missed out on a world of climbing if it weren’t for the breadcrumbs left by those who came before me, and the guidebook to the boulders at Rimrock has been good for our little corner of the climbing world. However, as our sport continues to grow, we must be aware of the impact we are having. It is important to remember that wilderness is a limited resource. There are more climbers now than ever and we are leaving our mark. As the sport of climbing continues to grow, we need to consider that there is a limit to wild spaces. The pioneering experience has been so important in my climbing. It is my hope that we find a way to preserve it for future generations of climbers.